7 days in Scotland: Highlands plus Edinburgh

Our goal for the first half of the trip was to head out to the west Highlands and the Isle of Skye, but after a 8 hour red-eye flight from the U.S. we wanted an easy and comfortable stopover that would give us a good introduction to Scotland. We certainly found that at the Gleneagles Hotel. 

The first day we drove from Gleneagles on the fast and narrow main road to Fort William. We stopped a few times along the way to take photos of the majestic mountain countryside. Especially beautiful is Glen Coe which is a deep valley surrounded by the mountains (tip, driving south to north is the best way to see Glen Coe).

That evening we had dinner at a charming local pub that was on the Inverlochy property. 

Fort William, our base, is a small town on the shores of Loch Linnhe. While the town itself might seem unremarkable at first glance, it serves as a gateway to numerous outdoor activities and the western islands, making it an ideal starting point for adventures in the Scottish Highlands.

On our final day in the Highlands, we ventured further west to the Isle of Skye. En route, we stopped at Eilean Donan Castle, still privately owned by a family. I highly recommend a visit; the history is fascinating and the surrounding area is picturesque.

We then headed to the southern part of Skye, characterized by rocky, calm inlets and a beautifully remote landscape. Here, we enjoyed a delightful lunch at the upscale, family-owned Kinloch Lodge.

We finished our day with walks around the Inverlochy Hotel property. As a light rain fell outside, signaling the arrival of autumn, we retreated to the manor's formal lounge for drinks and food.
 

For the final leg of our trip, we drove from Fort William to Edinburgh. The journey took us through rolling countryside, with the area around Creag Meagaidh National Nature Reserve being especially picturesque.
Once in Edinburgh and checked into our hotel, we set out to explore the city's New Town neighborhood. Despite its name, 'New' is relative here - most buildings date from the 1770s to 1850s, offering a charming blend of Georgian and early Victorian architecture.
 

We kicked off our Edinburgh adventure with drinks at The Broughton, a local favorite. Afterward, we indulged in some upscale shopping along George Street, known for its elegant boutiques and high-end retailers.
To cap off our day, we dined at Baba, a fantastic Mediterranean restaurant.

The next morning, we took a 20-minute stroll to Old Town to meet our guide for a private two-hour history tour. Scotland, deeply connected with England yet maintaining its own parliament, has a fascinating history spanning centuries. It was thrilling to learn about Mary, Queen of Scots' influence and gain insights into present-day politics.
Taking advantage of the sunny weather, we headed to the Royal Botanic Garden after the tour, just a 15-minute taxi ride from Old Town. I was particularly captivated by the 'kitchen garden,' full of vegetables used in on-site dining. Set within the city and sprawling across 70 acres, it took about 90 minutes to fully explore the gardens. While entry is free, they do suggest a donation. I definitely recommend a visit.
 

That evening, we again traversed New Town for dinner at The Bon Vivant, a lively upscale pub. We then popped into Cafe Royal, an ornate Victorian-era restaurant and bar, for a pint and sticky toffee pudding—a decision that certainly didn't disappoint!"

On our last day, we planned to visit two of Edinburgh's most famous sites: Edinburgh Castle and the Palace of Holyroodhouse.

We started with Edinburgh Castle, having purchased tickets online to avoid long queues. Despite the crowds of tourists filing in from buses, the experience was manageable. The castle, towering over the city atop a rocky hill, offers incredible views of Edinburgh and the surrounding waterways. The audio guides did an excellent job of narrating the castle's significance and rich history.

Afterward, we treated ourselves to our first fish and chips of the trip at a nearby restaurant. Then, we embarked on a 20-minute walk down the Royal Mile to Holyroodhouse. I particularly enjoyed learning about how the current monarchy still uses the palace as their residence and delving into the fascinating story of Mary, Queen of Scots. Once again, the audio guide made the visit both informative and entertaining.

Early in the evening, we explored the peaceful Dean Village neighborhood. This charming area, with its picturesque stream and walking path surrounded by historic residences, offered a welcome respite from the touristy Old Town and bustling main areas of Edinburgh.
We concluded our Scottish adventure with a relaxing evening of room service and packing for our journey home, reflecting (and watching the movie Mary, Queen of Scot's!) on the unforgettable experiences of our trip.